Knitwear 101
From styling, to fabrics and fits - everything you need to know about sweaters
I’ve got rosemary potatoes in the oven along with some handmade arugula and mozzarella-stuffed beef rounds. My balcony doors are slightly open to let in the winter air - it’s 8 degrees celsius (about 46 degrees Fahrenheit) and sunny, and it’s right around this time in winter where I start to get tired of my “sweater + jeans” uniform.
If you’re feeling the same, but have at least another month of sweater weather, let me help you fall back in love with your knitwear without shopping (styling ideas for every type of sweater), and give you a resource for the next time you need to fill a sweater gap in your closet (which fabrics and why, so you can shop less, but better).
I’m hungry and my lunch smells delicious, so brace yourself for a cheesy analogy. Like any good recipe, starting with good ingredients is key. And in this corner of the internet, I call them elements of style. For sweaters, I consider the most important elements to be:
1 - fabric choice (has an effect on the texture and let’s be real - most importantly: comfort lol)
2 - silhouette (the cut of the sweater - is it boxy, fitted, oversized? neckline and sleeves are also important)
FABRICS
Wool
My favourite fabric for winter knitwear is wool. I know a lot of people find it itchy, or have allergies, so synthetics will be best. More on fabric blends below. For itchiness, you could try hand washing your knitwear with a gentle wool detergent. I love Eucalan, or you could also try this one from Steamery.
I love wool because it is natural, durable, breathable, has exceptional longevity, and naturally repels water. Ever notice how your wools don’t retain smell like synthetic sweaters? It can be a knit or a weave. Like all things though, too much of it is not great. The overproduction of wool can lead to desertification and erosion of biodiversity due to overgrazing, the illegal seizure of Indigenous lands, poor treatment of animals, among many other offences. When I can, I buy it secondhand (men’s section is always top), but looking for the Responsible Wool Standard is OK too. (Although secondhand is truly best. I don’t put all my faith in certifications either, so everything in moderation, yes?)
Another tip: wool that’s super soft and fuzzy is great, but it means the yarn fibres are shorter, which makes it more prone to pilling.
Merino first. Always.
Merino comes from the wool of Merino sheep. It’s one of those magic fabrics that regulates your temperature in both hot and cold environments without being bulky. When I travel I put my merino tops in the sun outside, or spot clean if I have to. It makes the perfect travel fabric. I’ve since switched to wearing it exclusively as a base layer in the winter and in general as often as possible.
Cashmere is next. Similar properties to merino, but warmer and finer. It comes from the cashmere goat. Cashmere offers warmth without bulk.
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Cotton for summer months. I typically prefer a cotton knit (a single yarn that is looped) to a weave (two yarns woven together) because it lets more air through and is more breathable.
Blends when I prioritize the aesthetic. Sometimes I need some stretch, or have a specific design in mind. I move forward if the blend is only 2 fabrics. Blends I love:
cotton/silk: a fine knit that has the structure and casual properties of cotton but the elegant drape and added durability of silk.
cotton/linen: a beautiful combo for summer. Some structure and coolness from the linen with the softness and drape of cotton.
Synthetics when I *only* prioritize the aesthetic. I don’t have many, but I have found some secondhand sweaters that I love for the style and design, and purchased for that reason alone. These sweaters still get worn, and are very durable - the one plus side of synthetics not being biodegradable.
You will often see wools blended with nylon, acrylic, or sweaters that are 100% polyester. I go by the same principle here; if I love a sweater that is a blend, I’ll look for no more than 2 types of fabrics. Typically, blended fabric is a cost cutting measure, so I question the integrity of the garment when I see a high blend ratio. Synthetic fabrics are petro-chemical based, which is wild if you think about it. It’s economically cheaper to produce, but they are less odour resistant, do not biodegrade, have an intense chemical process, as well as being derived from fossil fuels.
SILHOUETTE
There might be some silhouettes that you gravitate to all the time - figure out why or why you don’t like certain silhouettes. Personally, I like having a lot of different silhouettes in my sweater collection because they are part of my winter uniform, and I prefer to play with shape vs. colour to get variance. But maybe you’re different! Maybe colour is your way to add spice because you want to stick to one or two silhouettes! So while I can’t tell you exactly what sweater to wear, I can give you ideas for the most popular styles of sweaters, so you know how to style them better.
Turtlenecks/mocknecks:
This is one of my favourite sweaters to own in every silhouette. The fitted turtleneck is the hardest working piece. Not only does it act as a cozy and chic base layer, but when worn under anything it adds a dash of dimension and interest because the collar always peeks out. Even under an oversized turtleneck or funnel neck, it makes itself known, and the outfit feels intentional and more styled.
On its own, the fitted turtleneck is the ultimate canvas for a big earring or strong necklace.
Turtlenecks in general have a baked in detail - the interesting neckline! This means they make a great layering piece. Layer heavier turtlenecks over button ups, or lighter turtlenecks under vests, crews, or V-necks if you want a more retro vibe. Style them with denim for a classic minimal take, or a skirt and long necklace to channel the 70’s. They’ve got some visual weight, so create some tension with a sleek shoe or go big and pair with a heavier sneaker or boot.
Crewnecks:
I love a crew with a thicker neckline. It gives elegant aran, it’s menswear-ish, it’s baked-in detail without effort. This is a really good neckline for those who like androgynous or gamine vibes. Layered over a collared shirt can feel very polished - so switch up the silhouette and texture of the bottom half if that feels too “dressed”. This is also a great canvas for all kinds of necklaces. I particularly like shorter ones that sit right around the collar. For fitted crews, pendant necklaces are great if you want to add verticality to your look. Because of its modesty, crew necks are also a great pairing with short hemlines like minis and shorts.
V Necks:
I love a deep V neck even if it’s not the most practical for cozy vibes. If you like a V but not so much the décolletage, shop the men’s section. The V is more shallow but you still get the vertical lines. I love this neckline to show off interesting pendant necklaces, chokers, or even shorter beaded or gemstone pendants. Layering with a V neck is fun because it exposes so much of the shirt underneath! I like how you can show off a bow blouse, lace details, or a fun print with a V neck.
Cardigans:
Vests:
Sweater vests are having a moment - the big, oversized kind with either a V or a crew neck. I like it when these are used to show off a sheer or interesting texture layered underneath. They feel very academic by nature, so rough them up a bit with textured bottoms, or an off-kilter footwear choice. I personally like them because they add an extra layer of warmth without bulk in the arms if you like layering blazers or coats overtop.
Oversized:
I know this is a very general category but the proportions on an oversized sweater are important! The neckline on an oversized sweater will make a difference too, but generally, I love using the big volume in an oversized sweater to do 3 things:
1 - add a lot of chill to tailored or structured pieces
2 - offset a cheeky silhouette like leggings or a skinny jean (YES THAT’S RIGHT)
3 - balance out the skin ratio for minis and shorts
Rapid Fire Sweater Styling Tips!
Try it backwards
Scrunch the sleeves
Add a big necklace
LAYER LAYER LAYER (try 2 sweaters like in my hero shot - who knows!)
Tie it around your shoulders like a scarf
Tie it around your shoulders over your jacket (yes, even a flouffy faux fur one - the texture play is cool)
Tie it around your waist
Make it tonal! (pale green sweater with forest green trousers for ex)
De-bobble regularly (this debobbler is so cute!)
Fold or hang folded like THIS